
Sacred Strands: Honoring Your Hair as a Path to Healing
At Surrasa, we believe that beauty begins from within, where nourishment, rest, and intentional living come together to express themselves through glowing skin, vibrant energy, and yes strong, healthy hair. Hair isn’t just something we see in the mirror; it’s a living reflection of how we feel, how we eat, and how we care for ourselves.
But have you ever paused to truly understand what makes hair grow or why it sometimes doesn’t? Let’s take a mindful journey through the biology of hair, the insights of Ayurveda, and the rituals that can help you maintain healthy, thriving strands naturally.
The Architecture of a Strand
The human body has around five million hair follicles, which not only help regulate body temperature and protect the skin from UV rays and environmental elements, but also influence our psychological well-being especially when hair growth or texture changes. On a healthy scalp, approximately 90% of hair is in the growth (anagen) phase and about 10% in the resting (telogen) phase. Hair loss often reflects a shift in this balance, with fewer growing hairs and more shedding ones.(1)
Each hair consists of two main parts: the hair shaft, which is the visible portion above the skin, and the hair follicle, which lies beneath the skin’s surface. The shaft is made up of non-living, keratinized cells arranged in a cylindrical form. It includes the cortex, which provides structure and color, and is surrounded by cuticle cells. Thicker hairs may also contain a medulla, a central core. The hair is anchored by the follicle, a dynamic structure that includes the hair bulb, the growth center at the base of the follicle where new hair is generated.
The cortex is especially important for determining a hair’s physical qualities such as strength, elasticity, and texture. Hair fibers are composed of microfibrils bundled into larger macrofibrils. The follicle itself is divided into inner and outer root sheaths and receives nerve and blood supply, enabling hair production. The hair bulb is richly innervated and surrounded by capillaries originating from the subcutaneous layer, delivering essential nutrients and oxygen while clearing waste. Impaired circulation, as seen in peripheral artery disease, may lead to subtle hair thinning, particularly on the lower limbs. Terminal hair refers to thick, pigmented hair visible to the naked eye.
Each of us is born with around five million hair follicles, with about 100,000 on the scalp alone. These follicles are not just passive, they are active, living structures influenced by nutrition, hormones, circulation, and even mood. Hair growth is regulated by numerous factors, including age, hormones, vascular supply, nutrition, and the nervous system. On average, scalp hair grows about 0.35 mm per day, or roughly 1 cm per month, and sheds at a rate of 100 to 200 hairs daily.(2) Each strand of hair is made of:
• The Hair Shaft: the visible, non-living part made of keratin (a strong protein).
• The Hair Follicle: the root structure beneath the scalp where growth happens.
At the base of the follicle is the hair bulb, which is nourished by blood vessels and surrounded by nerve endings. This is where each strand is "born." When circulation slows, stress spikes, or nutrients run low, hair growth can suffer.
The Hair Growth Cycle: Always in Motion
Hair follicles follow a repeating cycle made up of three phases: anagen, catagen, and telogen. Each stage involves unique shifts in cellular activity and gene expression:
1. Anagen (Growth Phase)
This phase can last anywhere from 2 to 7 years. It's when hair grows actively and deeply, rooted in a healthy follicle and supported by sleep, nutrition, and hormonal balance. This is the active phase, lasting several years, where hair follicles rapidly divide to produce the hair shaft from root to tip. During this phase, the follicle expands, the dermal papilla deepens into the adipose tissue, and the fat layer thickens. Hair growth in this stage is supported by good nutrition, stress management, adequate sleep, and regular scalp care. Adipocytes and other local cells help support the follicle’s metabolic needs.(3)
2. Catagen (Transition Phase)
Following anagen, the follicle enters a brief transitional phase lasting a few weeks. Cell activity declines, and the follicle shrinks through programmed cell death (apoptosis) and the hair detaches from its blood supply, preparing for the next stage. During this time, a club hair forms, a detached hair structure that stays in place until it's shed. Widespread formation of club hairs may lead to visible thinning, especially in cases of hormonal changes, nutritional deficiencies, thyroid disorders, or after childbirth.(4)
3. Telogen (Resting Phase)
This phase lasts around 3 months. The hair rests before eventually shedding, usually 100 to 200 strands per day, which is completely normal. Hair loss happens when too many hairs shift into this resting phase at once, often due to stress, hormonal shifts, or nutrient imbalances. In this resting phase, follicles remain dormant, often for several months. About 10–15% of scalp hairs are in this stage at any time. Hair does not grow during telogen, but the follicle stores stem cells in the bulge area. Once the dermal papilla provides a sufficient growth signal, the cycle restarts.(5) If the signal is weak or absent, such as in scarring conditions or stem cell depletion, the cycle may be disrupted.(6)
The precise timing of each phase is determined by local signaling pathways, stem cell readiness, and growth factor levels. According to the bulge activation theory, stem cells in the follicular bulge respond to cues from the dermal papilla, initiating new growth. These stem cells, however, have a limited ability to divide, helping determine the overall length of the hair growth cycle.
In modern science, hair health is influenced by stem cells, hormones, and nutrients. In Ayurveda, hair or Kesha is considered a byproduct of Asthi Dhatu, or bone tissue. Hair health reflects the state of your doshas, especially Pitta, the fiery energy that governs metabolism.
Modern Science |
Ayurveda |
Hair grows via follicular stem cells and nutrients |
Hair is nourished by healthy digestion and balanced doshas |
Hair loss linked to stress, hormones, poor blood flow |
Hair loss linked to Pitta imbalance, poor Agni (digestion), and toxin build-up |
Treatments include topicals, supplements, hormone support |
Care includes scalp oiling, herbal formulas, diet, and daily rituals |
Nurturing Hair: From Root to Ritual: Daily Nourishment
Hair care is a ritual, an act of care that connects you to yourself.
Diet: Eat foods rich in biotin, zinc, iron, omega-3s, and protein. Ayurveda recommends cooling, nourishing foods like amla, coconut, leafy greens, ghee, and whole grains to support hair and soothe Pitta.
Scalp Rituals: Weekly scalp oil massage (Shiro Abhyanga) increases circulation, nourishes the follicles, and deeply relaxes the nervous system. Oils like sesame seed oil, castor oil, and coconut oil are especially supportive.
Stress, Sleep and Stillness: Hair responds to cortisol. So give it rest. Yoga, breath-work, meditation, and herbs like ashwagandha and brahmi help keep the nervous system calm and hair-friendly.
Avoid harsh shampoos. Look for sulfate-free, herbal-based cleansers that preserve your scalp’s natural oils. Ayurvedic herbs like shikakai, neem, and fenugreek are time-tested allies. Hair growth is a quiet, ongoing conversation between your body and your life. Whether you’re restoring thinning strands, caring for postpartum hair, let each choice come from what you eat to how you rest and be infused with care.
How to Support Your Hair Naturally?
• Explore Our Amara Ayurvedic Hair Oil →
Discover hand-blended oils infused with rosemary, and thyme—designed to nourish your scalp, calm your senses, and awaken healthy growth from root to tip.
• Book your Ayurvedic Consultation →
Not sure what your hair needs most? Start with your Ayurvedic body-mind type and receive personalized recommendations based on your dosha.
References:
1.Ji S, Zhu Z, Sun X, Fu X. Functional hair follicle regeneration: an updated review. Signal Transduct Target Ther. 2021;6:66.
2. Murphrey MB, Agarwal S, Zito PM. StatPearls [Internet]. StatPearls Publishing; Treasure Island (FL): Aug 14, 2023. Anatomy, Hair.
3.Hoover E, Alhajj M, Flores JL. Physiology, Hair. [Updated 2023 Jul 30]. In: StatPearls [Internet]. Treasure Island (FL): StatPearls Publishing; 2024 Jan-. Available from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK499948/.
4.Legrand JMD, Roy E, Ellis JJ, Francois M, Brooks AJ, Khosrotehrani K. STAT5 Activation in the Dermal Papilla Is Important for Hair Follicle Growth Phase Induction. J Invest Dermatol. 2016;136:1781-1791.
5. Fuchs E, Merrill BJ, Jamora C, DasGupta R. At the roots of a never-ending cycle. Dev Cell. 2001;1:13-25.
6. Morgan BA. The dermal papilla: an instructive niche for epithelial stem and progenitor cells in development and regeneration of the hair follicle. Cold Spring Harb Perspect Med. 2014;4:a015180.